“The bull butts”: foremilk dishes in the food culture of the Finno-Ugric peoples of the Ural-Volga region
Udmurt Institute of History, Language and Literature, Udmurt Federal Research Center, Ural Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Izhevsk, Russian Federation, [email protected]
ABSTRACT
Introduction: using the example of the traditions of the Finno-Ugric peoples of the Ural-Volga region (Udmurts, Besermians, Kama Mari peoples), the article studies foremilk dishes and related beliefs.
Objective: analysis of the types of cow foremilk dishes, their ritual purpose and symbolism, the current state of tradition.
Research materials: the author’s field ethnographic materials, information on calendar and pastoralist rituals, empirical data of folklore and linguistic sources, registers of intangible heritage and ethno-cultural projects.
Results and novelty of the research: based on broad comparative material, the types, symbolism and ritual purpose of foremilk dishes and meals on the occasion of cow calving in the culture of the Finno-Ugric peoples of the Ural-Volga region are identified. It is boiled, baked to a thick consistency, served in pieces in milk, used as fillings in dumplings and pies, cooked as the sauce named zyret for pancakes and bread. Relatives and neighbors, especially children and women, participate in the ritual meal. Games, meal etiquette, blows to the forehead with a spoon, treats to cows and calves, gifts to
the owners have a ritual character.Archaic animistic ideas persist: praying and appealing to the ancestors with foremilk food, which are associated with the idea of their impact on the welfare of livestock and an abundance of milk. It is concluded that foremilk dishes and meals are
an important element of ethnic culture, kinship and village ties. It demonstrates the use of the rite on stage, in modern cultural projects, and the inclusion in the register of intangible ethnic heritage in the regions of existence.
Key words: foremilk, milk, food culture, folk cuisine, food symbolism, Finno-Ugric peoples, Ural-Volga region, Beserman people, Udmurt people, Kama Mari people, Eastern Mari people
For citation: Popova E. V. “The bull butts”: foremilk dishes in the food culture of the Finno-Ugric peoples of the Ural- Volga region // Vestnik ugrovedenia = Bulletin of Ugric Studies. 2024; 14 (2/57): 335–347.